June 5, 2009 at 4:58 pm #113
I know everyone has their preference for bass and how much they like. I have had a "department store" quality sub for several years now and have never owned a nice sub until now. I just got a Bravus 12D and was wondering what volume levels are used out there. My receiver I keep at 0db. My crossover is set at 200 hz on my reciver and then at 80hz on the sub.June 6, 2009 at 7:52 am #770
Cool that you got the 12D. post your thoughts on it. I am not an expert but I think it is suggested to have the crossover on the receiver set to 80hz. That's the THX level. What kind of Fronts do you have? Towers or Bookshelves?June 6, 2009 at 10:25 am #487
I put the sub through some of my personal favorite scenes to get to know it and it is a truly amazing piece of audio equipment. Unfortunately it has exposed my receiver as my system's weakest link. When watching TV with the sub in auto mode it will turn on and off at weird times. Like half a commercial's music track won't turn the sub on, but the other half will. I have tried turning up the overall volume of the reciver and that didn't change it. I tried turning up the sub level on the reciever and that didn't change it. So I just left the sub on all the time, but even with the receiver off it faintly rumbles constantly. I have my sub volume set at +5. My sub level on my receiver is now at +1. I have Aperion bookshelf speakers. I bought them right before the DX3 crossovers were introduced. They are similar to what they now call the 5 series. I will eventually get a pair of towers for the front, but I am firrst focusing on a new receiver, hopefully in the next year.
I have been really amazed at what this sub is capable of. One scene that is great for exposing the true quality of a sub is the beginning of Star Wars Ep.2 where the senator's ship is appraoching the city. This has always been a scene for me that I have to turn the sub level way down and then back up after it is over, because it just booms and distorts and sounds awful. But this sub LOVED it. Instead of getting boomy it got personal, meaning it reached out and touched me. A huge difference and a significant improvement. Then I threw some 5.1 music at it. And once again I picked something that usually highlights a sub's shortcomings. Harry Connick jr. Only You. The jazz arrangements on this dvd are detailed and intricate and usually when I get the bass where I like it I can't hear other aureal details, not because the Aperion bookshelf's aren't doing it, but because the boomy nature of the bass is drowning out the details. This sub had an amazingly rich sound that sounded like a live performance. Even when turned way up it stayed even and performed beautifuly.
I am still messing around with the room settings and what not, figuring out what sounds best. I wish my receiver's crossover setting went lower than 100. At first I had it set at 200 and my sub at 80, now I have it set at 100 on the reciver and 80 on the sub. I am thinking of setting my sub at 100 so that the corssover settings match, but I really want a lower crossover than 100 hz.June 7, 2009 at 6:22 am #925
80Hz is preferred but 100 should work well enough. Best to have the AVR to handle both the sub and fronts crossvers if it can.
The main thing to do if you want auto is the set the sub level in the AVR to the same as the fronts, in my case the default fronts and sub were the same at +12. All AVRs are different however. Then set the volume on the sub appropriately, in my case it is between -9 to -11. The sub is always on when it should be and never cuts off until about 15 to 20 minutes after the AVR is off.
The constant rumble means you have the volume on the sub itself too high and the level on the AVR set too low and/or also likely have the sub cable to near or running along side a power cable (60 Hz you know), or a low quality sub cable.
CheersJune 8, 2009 at 3:46 am #488
Thank you for the feedback and the suggestions. I think turning up my AVR levels has helped. But my sub seems to respond weird in AUTO mode. It seems to have a delayed response and also shuts off after one or two seconds. This is seems quite a bit different from what you described which is how my previous sub behaved. I have my sub volume at 0db. If I turn my sub volume down to the levels you have yours set at I can't hear any bass at all. I have my crossover at 80hz. And my LOW BASS ADJUST set at +2. I guess I need to look into a better/newer sub cable. Mine is a Monster Cable, but it is probably 10 years old. Also, my sub is plugged directly into the wall and the house is VERY old and the wiring is from the stone age, so maybe I should consider a dedicated "clean" power source for my sub as well.June 8, 2009 at 6:48 am #926
Does your AVR allow you to set the level of speakers individually, if so bump up the the sub level on the AVR and reduce the volume on the sub. The low bass adjust should not matter with the auto setting.June 8, 2009 at 3:06 pm #996
I did this and it made a HUGE difference. This tip has been posted before and is always helpful!June 8, 2009 at 5:34 pm #489
After some experimentation, well ok, A LOT of experimentation I have determined that the master volume on the AVR is also an influence in getting the sub to "trigger" in AUTO mode. Believe it or not the thing that I have found that makes the biggest difference for me is not using the LFE input in the back of the sub. Since I unpacked my sub and hooked it up I experienced zero problems when playing DVD/Blu-Ray. All the problems and hassles I was having were while watching TV. (DirecTV HD DVR) So I just started going through every little detail and the realized that my previous sub had a left and right input and my Bravus 12D has a left/right as well as a single LFE input. When I connected my new sub I got rid of the splitter and opted to use the single LFE connection. I have now plugged the splitter back in and am using the left/right inputs on the back of the sub instead of the single LFE input. I hear no difference for DVD/blu-ray, but when watching TV where very few signals are 5.1, it finally sounds right. Now I can get back to fine tuning the overall sound. Also, what did you mean that the LOW BASS ADJUST shouldn't matter? My understanding of the LOW BASS ADJUST was that it was a "bass boost" for the lower frequencies, whcih comes in very handy at lower volume levels.June 9, 2009 at 7:07 am #927
The low bass adjust should not affect the auto mode since it is entirely internal to the sub. Sound wise it will make a difference.
CheersJune 9, 2009 at 8:20 am #771
Jay, that's interesting that there was a difference with the Single LFE input versus the Splitter/Double L-R input. Can a Guru comment on why this would make a difference? Is this the suggested method for hooking the 12D up to an AVR?June 9, 2009 at 9:35 am #1188
[quote user="deuce1973"]Jay, that's interesting that there was a difference with the Single LFE input versus the Splitter/Double L-R input. Can a Guru comment on why this would make a difference? Is this the suggested method for hooking the 12D up to an AVR?[/quote]
So since the y adapter effectively doubles the input signal it can help out with the sub going into sleep mode since the whole problem is that the sub is not detecting the signal.
It also increases the output of the sub by about 3 dB so if you are having to turn up the sub kind of high to get the amount of output you want, using a y adapter can allow you to keep the sub's volume a bit lower.June 9, 2009 at 11:44 am #773
Jason, do you personally recommend using a y adapter, is it to each their own?June 9, 2009 at 11:47 am #1189
I don't use one myself, but if folks are having input sensitivity issues or having to turn the sub way up then it's an easy remedy.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.