Probably the number one question we are asked about, is whether a subwoofer is working properly or not. There are multiple scenarios and components to check during the troubleshooting process, so let’s get rumblin’!

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1. Does it power on?

No - Check the fuse and/or power source and circuit breakers.

Tip: If the fuse spec is not located directly on the amplifier plate of the subwoofer, check with the manufacturer to get specifics on the type of fuse to be used.

Note- Some fuse holders "clip" into the power socket to secure the fuse in place. You may need to use a flat head screw driver with slight pressure to release the fuse holder.

Yes - Check sub volume/input settings. Go to next.

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2. Unplug the sub cable from the receiver and tap the end with your thumb. Do you hear sound?

No - Run sound directly into the sub from a mobile device or CD player. You should be able to clearly hear sound. Double check that your source device is turned up.

Tip: Generally you can use a standard auxillary audio cable like a 3.5mm TRS to dual RCA (see link) Audio Cable 3.5 MM to Dual RCA

Yes - This shows signal is passing through the cable and the subwoofer amplifier and driver unit are responding. Check the connection on the receiver.

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3. Still no sound?

Now it’s time to check your receivers manual setup and speaker settings. Some receivers will not output audio to the sub if the speakers are set to large.

Click the setup button on your remote, this should bring up a home menu on your TV.

With Marantz and Denon, follow this menu tree:

Setups> speakers> manual setup> speaker configuration> here you can change speakers from large to small

Once this is done, your subwoofer should activate and be good to go.

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4. If still no sound, check the Low Frequency Effects setting.

With Marantz and Denon you want to use LFE+Main, follow this menu tree:

Setups> speakers> manual setup> bass> here you can change the setting from LFE, or LFE+Main.

For other receivers, use the following:

• Yamaha – Extra Bass
• Onkyo – Double Bass
• Pioneer – Plus Bass

Once this is enabled, your sub should be kickin’!

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5. If at this point, you still don’t hear any sound, you will need to test the different components of the subwoofer.

First you will need to remove the driver (speaker) from the cabinet and test it by itself. If it’s an Aperion Subwoofer, use the following steps:

1) First you need to turn the subwoofer on its top so the downward facing driver is facing up. Using a small piece of carpet will help to not scuff the cabinet.

2) Next you can remove all 8 of the phillips screws.

3) Now turn the subwoofer over to its normal position.

4) You may need to gently lift and then tap down to get the woofer to release. There is an inner seal that can adhere to the cabinet making it tough to dislodge.

5) Once the woofer is released from the cabinet, be very careful as the speaker wire leads are not very long. Disconnect connect the terminals.

6) Use the speaker wire from one of the front channel speakers and hold the ends to the driver terminals. Make sure sound is playing from the receiver and you should hear sound through the driver.

7) Reconnect - you will see that the terminals on the woofer are marked with a + and – symbol. The red is to be attached to the positive terminal and the black /red to the negative terminal.

8) Once everything is reconnected, carefully drop the woofer back in place and then you can begin to replace the Philips screws.

9) Once you have screwed all the screws back in you should be set to power on your subwoofer. Be sure to double check your settings prior to powering on the unit.

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After testing the driver, if the sub still doesn’t have output then it’s likely the amp.

At this point you will want to contact the manufacturer of your subwoofer, and see if replacements are available. If not, then there are some DIY options out there that may be useful in restoring your subwoofer needs!

Here’s an image of one way to build a DIY amp into a sub, using a Dayton Audio SPA250.

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